Hats and Headdresses

There seem to be any number of variations for ladies head coverings. And any generalization will fail to capture the fact that veil stylings changed dramatically over time and from place to place.

Most commonly these headdresses involve three distinct parts:

  1. one or more veils layered atop the head frequently with some sort of head band to hold the veils in place
  2. Something to frame the face; a pearl or beaded necklace worn under the chin, a scarf or even some ladies seem to tie their own hair together under their chin. The beads under the chin are nearly always white or black. It is possible that the black beads are white or silver paint that has oxidized.
  3. A braid case worn beneath the other veils.
Some head scarves are very small and only on the very top of the head atop other scarves. Triangular shapes are formed by the thrown-back corners of these veils; one source theorizes that this is a face veil that’s been thrown back while the lady is indoors though I am less inclined to believe this theory as some of the illuminations are outdoor scenes and those outdoor scenes of ladies with face veils the veils are invariably white.

I’m particularly fond of the 15th century lady in waiting pictured left with a brilliant blue scarf wrapped under her chin and tied atop her head (serving the same purpose of the band of pearls, framing the face.) Note also how she and her mistress pictured below her have nearly transparent veils worn as the bottommost layer of the headdress. This transparent veil bottom layer is a smooth transition from the 14th century headdress which consisted of a single wrapped semi-transparent veil with a headband to secure it.

In some cases bits of jewelry appear at the forehead, like the lady pictured right who is a nurse maid (and lover, in the story) of a prince. It appears to be a flat decorative piece afixed somehow to her veiling (sewn?). Note also the plume. There are depictions of ladies in crowns or tiaras as well, these also most commonly worn overtop the veils, though the lady pictured bottom left has a veil tied over her crown. While many of these crowned ladies are princesses, they are not always identified as such.

An elegant 15th century lady with a brilliant blue scarf tied under her chin over a headband(?), veil and transparent veil. A fairly standard veils and string of pearls arrangement
Another 15th century lady, the points of her top, yellow veil falling dramatically behind her head. Note the transparent veil over her hair and under her chin. A messy pile of veiling, two veils and a headband?
A triangualr kerchief (or a square one folded on the diagonal) tied under the chin over a veil or braid case. She also has a plume attached to the front of the botton veil (which may be a headband or the braid case) and a string of pearls under her chin. A loose pile of three veils (or two veils and a green braid case) with attached jewelry piece, plume and string of pearls. Notabily this character is a beautiful nurse to a prince.
This lady wears a crown of sorts under her triangular veil which is tied under her chin, note the plume and a braid case or yellow veil hanging behind. This lady has tied her own hair beneath her chin. I believe the white patterned fabric is her braid case with just a red and yellow square or triangular veil pinned atop.

The string of pearls is an elegant and beautiful style, I theorize this is either a full loop of pearls held in place by a pin or other attachment to the veils at the top of the head or with a closure to connect the two ends. I base this on the fact that were the pearls attached to the headband or edge of the veil at the temples, the weight of the jewelry would pull the fabric downward and there is no evidence of this happening. (Though do take that with a grain of salt; there are some images where it looks very clearly like the pearls are attached to the headband. If this is the case a stiffend headband would be needed.)

I found a stiff or thick headband worn beneath the veils had the added bennefit of holding the veils up and away from the head providing room for air to circulate and keep the wearer cooler.

Now read about Braid cases in more detail which will be followed with some step by step instructions.