|
Embroidery and Cloud CollarsA beautiful embellishment, cloud collars seem to mostly appear on those who are of high rank or dressed more formally. There is one extant Cloud Collar (pictured in Canby's book and found on-line at the Persian Embroidery page) Additionally Canby has some drawn patterns used for creating cloud collars that are extant. Most researchers follow the path of the Chinese cloud collar (pictured left) which is a separate piece of fabric and tends to stand out at the shoulders stiffly. While the Persian fascination with Chinese art and culture is well documented, it is important to note that these separate cloud collars did not come into fashion in China until after the period we are studying here. |
|
| A Qing Dynasty (17th or 18th century) Chinese emperor, Kangxi, with his separate cloud collar. | The extant collar |
However, in manuscripts the cloud collars seem almost painted on. I suspect that they are indeed embroidered directly onto the garments, and in rare instances cut off of an old coat and recycled by applique onto a new coat; sewn all around the edges rather than kept as a separate piece. This is just my theory, mind you, so take that with a grain of salt.
|
 
|
|
| A hero in a Freer Sackler minature with his lovely cloud collar, note also the fur lining to his overcoat. | A lady and gentleman with cloud collars of fine painted gold detail in a 15th century minature | A princely gentleman with a cloud collar from the Burlington Magazine article |