Buttons and Closures for Coats

In addition to the variations in sleeves and hem length; the over-coat frequently was decorated with fine closures and could have a contrasting collar and/or embellished collar.

There are several options for closures on all layers of Persian costume. The shirt is often depicted with a single button at the throat or, perhaps, a broach. On the coats and over-coats the buttons become a beautiful decorative element.

The first type of closure that comes to mind is the "Marching Band" horizontal line closures which feature a button (or button knot) with an attached line of cording or trim. (Easily done if you are tying a chinese button knot with a long 'tail.')

Pictured left we have an interesting depiction of an over-coat with ties down the front; it appears from this picture that a single lace connects each pair of lacing holes forming a ladder-like effect. This is not quite as common in depictions as the "Marching Band" look, but is easily achieved by sewing a series of lacing holes on the coat and cutting lacing for each pair of holes. A simple knot (or a button) on the end of each lace will keep it from slipping through the hole.

The poet Rumi wrote in the 13th century “loosen knot by knot the strings of your robe ” which implies, to me, a knotted tie closure used then.

There are also many depictions of simple buttons along the front seam without embellishment. And some larger, decorative buttons as well. Pictured left is a puzzling method; the lady's coat has what appear to be toggles or buttons along both sides of the coat. Is this just an artists simplification of her closures? Are these frogs, clasps?

Two extant 13th century coats in a Turkish museum (discussed also on the coat and sleeves pages) have some more concrete evidence for buttons. The one (pictured left) has what appear to be button knots paired and spaced down the front of the coat. The other has loops, but no remaining buttons. Again paired and spaced apart. It does seem that having a coat unbuttoned or partially unbuttoned (such as buttoned at the throat and halfway down) was a popular fashion at times.